:root{--ink:#1c1a17;--mute:#5e5a52;--bg:#FBF7F0;--card:#fff;--teal:#0F3B3A;--red:#C8341F;--gold:#F2B544;--line:#e8e0d2;--r:14px}
*{box-sizing:border-box}html{scroll-behavior:smooth}body{margin:0;font:16px/1.65 Inter,system-ui,sans-serif;color:var(--ink);background:var(--bg)}
h1,h2,h3{font-family:Fraunces,Georgia,serif;line-height:1.15;margin:.2em 0 .5em}h1{font-size:clamp(2rem,4.5vw,3.2rem)}h2{font-size:clamp(1.4rem,2.6vw,1.9rem)}h3{font-size:1.15rem}
a{color:var(--red)}img{max-width:100%;display:block}.wrap{max-width:1180px;margin:0 auto;padding:0 20px}.small{font-size:.85rem;color:var(--mute)}.center{text-align:center}
.top{position:sticky;top:0;z-index:50;background:rgba(251,247,240,.94);backdrop-filter:blur(8px);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.bar{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;height:64px}.logo{display:flex;gap:10px;align-items:center;text-decoration:none;color:var(--teal);font-family:Fraunces,serif;font-size:1.2rem}
.nav{display:flex;gap:18px;align-items:center}.nav a{color:var(--ink);text-decoration:none;font-weight:500;font-size:.93rem}.nav a:hover{color:var(--red)}.burger{display:none;background:none;border:0;font-size:1.6rem}
.btn{display:inline-block;background:var(--red);color:#fff!important;padding:13px 24px;border-radius:999px;text-decoration:none;font-weight:600;border:0;cursor:pointer;font-size:1rem}.btn:hover{background:#a92a17}
.btn-sm{padding:8px 16px;font-size:.9rem}.btn-ghost{background:transparent;color:var(--teal)!important;border:1.5px solid var(--teal);padding:9px 16px;font-size:.9rem;margin:4px 4px 4px 0}.btn-ghost:hover{background:var(--teal);color:#fff!important}.btn-ghost.light{color:#fff!important;border-color:#fff}.wide{display:block;text-align:center;width:100%}
.hero{background:linear-gradient(180deg,rgba(10,30,30,.55),rgba(10,30,30,.85)),var(--teal) center/cover;color:#fff;padding:110px 0 90px}
.hero h1 span{color:var(--gold);font-size:.6em}.hero .lede{max-width:640px;font-size:1.15rem;opacity:.95}.kicker{text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.12em;font-size:.78rem;font-weight:600;color:var(--red)}.hero .kicker{color:var(--gold)}
.cta{display:flex;gap:12px;flex-wrap:wrap;margin:24px 0}.trust{display:flex;gap:22px;flex-wrap:wrap;padding:0;list-style:none;opacity:.85;font-size:.9rem}.trust li:before{content:"✓ ";color:var(--gold)}
.block{padding:56px 20px 8px}.sh{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:baseline}.sh a{font-weight:600;text-decoration:none}.sub{color:var(--mute);margin-top:-6px}
.tiles{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(170px,1fr));gap:12px}.tile{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--r);padding:18px;text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink);display:flex;flex-direction:column;transition:.15s}.tile:hover{border-color:var(--red);transform:translateY(-2px)}.tile span{color:var(--mute);font-size:.85rem}.tile.hl{background:var(--teal);color:#fff}.tile.hl span{color:var(--gold)}
.steps{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(240px,1fr));gap:16px;padding:0;list-style:none;counter-reset:s}.steps li{background:var(--card);border-radius:var(--r);padding:22px;border:1px solid var(--line);counter-increment:s}.steps li:before{content:counter(s);display:inline-grid;place-items:center;width:34px;height:34px;border-radius:50%;background:var(--gold);font-weight:700;margin-bottom:8px}.steps b,.steps span{display:block}.steps span{color:var(--mute)}
.cards{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(260px,1fr));gap:20px;margin:20px 0}.card{background:var(--card);border-radius:var(--r);overflow:hidden;text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink);border:1px solid var(--line);transition:.15s;display:flex;flex-direction:column}.card:hover{transform:translateY(-3px);box-shadow:0 10px 30px rgba(0,0,0,.08)}
.pic{position:relative;aspect-ratio:3/2;background:#e9e1d3;overflow:hidden}.pic img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover}.noimg{display:grid;place-items:center;height:100%;font:700 3rem Fraunces,serif;color:var(--teal);background:linear-gradient(135deg,#f3e6cf,#e5d3b3)}.tag{position:absolute;left:10px;top:10px;background:rgba(15,59,58,.9);color:#fff;font-size:.72rem;padding:3px 9px;border-radius:99px}
.cb{padding:16px 18px}.cb p{margin:.3em 0;font-size:.93rem;color:#3d3a34}.meta{color:var(--mute)!important;font-size:.8rem!important;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.05em}.card.it{border-left:4px solid var(--gold)}
.crumbs{max-width:1180px;margin:16px auto 0;padding:0 20px;font-size:.85rem;color:var(--mute)}.crumbs a{color:var(--mute)}
.ph{padding:28px 0 10px}.lede{font-size:1.12rem;color:#3d3a34;max-width:760px}.bn{font-size:.55em;color:var(--mute);font-weight:500}
.hero-img{margin:10px 0 28px}.hero-img img{width:100%;max-height:540px;object-fit:cover;border-radius:var(--r)}figcaption{font-size:.75rem;color:var(--mute);margin-top:6px}figcaption a{color:var(--mute)}
.grid2{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) 340px;gap:40px}.prose p{margin:0 0 1.1em}.side .box{position:sticky;top:84px;background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--r);padding:20px}.side h2{font-size:1.2rem}
.facts{display:grid;grid-template-columns:100px 1fr;gap:8px 12px;font-size:.9rem;margin:0 0 14px}.facts dt{color:var(--mute);font-weight:600}.facts dd{margin:0}
.tip{background:#FFF4DA;border-left:4px solid var(--gold);padding:14px 18px;border-radius:8px;margin:20px 0}.tip p{margin:.3em 0 0}
.chips{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px;padding:0;list-style:none}.chips li{background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);padding:6px 14px;border-radius:99px;font-size:.9rem}
.faq details{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:10px;padding:14px 18px;margin:8px 0}.faq summary{font-weight:600;cursor:pointer}.faq p{margin:.6em 0 0}
.nearby{list-style:none;padding:0;display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(250px,1fr));gap:8px}.nearby span{color:var(--mute);font-size:.82rem;display:block}
.srcs{margin:30px 0;font-size:.85rem;color:var(--mute)}.srcs a{color:var(--mute);word-break:break-all}
.day{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--r);padding:20px 22px;margin-bottom:16px}.day dl{display:grid;grid-template-columns:110px 1fr;gap:8px 14px;margin:0}.day dt{font-weight:600;color:var(--teal)}.day dd{margin:0}
.guide table{width:100%;border-collapse:collapse;background:var(--card);font-size:.92rem;margin-bottom:30px;display:block;overflow-x:auto}.guide th,.guide td{border:1px solid var(--line);padding:9px 11px;text-align:left;vertical-align:top}.guide th{background:#f3ece0}
.toc{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px;margin:10px 0 30px}.toc a{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);padding:6px 14px;border-radius:99px;text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink);font-size:.9rem}
.plain{padding-left:20px}.narrow{max-width:760px;padding-top:30px;padding-bottom:30px}
.filters{display:flex;gap:8px;margin:10px 0}.filters button{border:1px solid var(--line);background:#fff;padding:7px 16px;border-radius:99px;cursor:pointer}.filters button.on{background:var(--teal);color:#fff}
.form{max-width:820px;background:var(--card);border-radius:var(--r);padding:26px;border:1px solid var(--line);margin-bottom:40px}.form fieldset{border:0;padding:0;margin:0 0 22px}.form legend{font:600 1.2rem Fraunces,serif;margin-bottom:10px}
.form label{display:flex;flex-direction:column;font-size:.88rem;font-weight:600;gap:5px;flex:1;margin-bottom:12px}.form .inline{flex-direction:row;align-items:center;gap:8px;font-weight:500}
.row{display:flex;gap:14px;flex-wrap:wrap}.row>label{min-width:180px}input,select,textarea{font:inherit;padding:11px 12px;border:1px solid #d6ccbb;border-radius:10px;background:#fff;font-weight:400}input:focus,select:focus,textarea:focus{outline:2px solid var(--gold);border-color:var(--gold)}
.chips-in{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px}.chip{flex:0 0 auto!important;margin:0!important}.chip input{position:absolute;opacity:0}.chip span{display:block;border:1.5px solid #d6ccbb;border-radius:99px;padding:8px 16px;cursor:pointer;font-weight:500}.chip input:checked+span{background:var(--teal);color:#fff;border-color:var(--teal)}.chip input:focus-visible+span{outline:2px solid var(--gold)}
.hp{position:absolute;left:-9999px}.err{color:var(--red);font-weight:600}.done{background:#E9F5EE;border-radius:var(--r);padding:30px;margin-bottom:40px}
.cta-band{background:var(--teal);color:#fff;padding:56px 0;text-align:center;margin-top:60px}.cta-band p{opacity:.9;max-width:600px;margin:0 auto 22px}
.foot{background:#0b2b2a;color:#cfd8d6;padding:46px 0 20px}.foot .cols{display:grid;grid-template-columns:2fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;gap:30px}.foot a{color:#cfd8d6;display:block;text-decoration:none;font-size:.9rem;margin:4px 0}.foot .logo{color:#fff}.foot h4{color:var(--gold);margin:0 0 8px}.foot .small{color:#8fa5a2;margin-top:30px}
@media(max-width:860px){.grid2{grid-template-columns:1fr}.nav{display:none;position:absolute;top:64px;left:0;right:0;background:var(--bg);flex-direction:column;padding:20px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.nav-open .nav{display:flex}.burger{display:block}.foot .cols{grid-template-columns:1fr}.hero{padding:70px 0 60px}.side .box{position:static}}
.hero-credit{font-size:.72rem;opacity:.6;margin-top:30px}.hero-credit a{color:#fff}